Monday, April 10, 2006

Springtime in Budapest

I'm back from a 5 day/5 night trip to Budapest; I left Mike and the critters alone and struck out on my own for the first time since we moved to Europe! Here's a quick recap of my activities; I'll type more detail later:

  • Tuesday night 4 April: Arrived in Budapest (LATE)
  • Wednesday 5 April: Segway tour, walking tour of central Pest, St. Istvan's Basilica, Hungarian dinner
  • Thursday 6 April: Great Synagogue, Great Market Hall, walk across Freedom bridge, shopping, folk music Dance House
  • Friday 7 April: Terror museum, Heroes Square, Szchenzya baths, soaking and massage; Zoo; Castle Hill, Opera
  • Saturday 8 April: Szentendre old town and Open Air Folk Museum
  • Sunday 9 April: Massage at Gellert salon, Palm Sunday service at Cave Church; museums in Obuda, cake at Gerbaud, fly home.

So for this entry I'll just type some general information.

  • * Budapest is a big city. I was really happy with the minimal touristy-ness of it. During this trip I think I finally realized what exactly that phrase means (to me, at least). You know how you feel when you're talking to a sleazy car salesman, where he just seems so fake and unctuous, and it's always obvious that his main goal is to take as much of your money as possible? vs. the really good ones, who are helpful without being overbearing, who mostly let the strengths/characteristics of the car speak for itself, but are there to streamline the process, give you helpful information, and they make you feel comfortable? Well, parts of Budapest felt like a sleazy car salesman (quickly for the record, Castle Hill, Vaci utca, and Szentendre (although I still enjoyed Szentendre; the touristyness was less obtrusive)).

  • * I stayed at an apartment in central Pest (http://www.budabab.com) that was just delightful. Ryan and Ron, 2 American professors living in Budapest for the last 4 years, have a fantastic 4th floor (yes, there's a lift) apartment with high ceilings and big windows. They're so friendly and helpful, always offering guidance when needed, about shopping, public transport, sightseeing, local culture...the list goes on and on. They loaned me a towel and bag for the baths, and Ron even bought me a special cottage cheese treat because he knew I liked cottage cheese! It was so nice, like staying with old friends, which was perfect for me travelling by myself. It was a lot less lonely that way. The bathroom is shared, and the room is on the street, so there can be some street noise, but there are shutters that can be drawn that can shut a lot of it out. Floors are pretty creaky but I thought it added to the atmosphere. Breakfast was wonderful whole grain bread with a selection of meats and cheeses, coffee/tea, orange juice, and a variety of jams and spreads for the bread. And of course good conversation about the plans for the day! There are 2 rooms, 1 small with a single bed and sofa, and 1 large with a double bed (maybe a sofa too, I didn't go in that room). I paid 25 euros a night.

  • * Toilet paper in Budapest was the worst in the world! Oddly I think the paper towels were softer.

  • * I like to think of myself as a language immersion-type person. I usually try to communicate in the local language whenever possible. For the life of me, I could NEVER remember even words as simple as Yes, No, Please, Thank You, Where is..., Good morning, "Do you speak English?" or anything. The extent of my Magyar knowledge: Egy (one), Hallo (can mean hello or goodbye), and szia (pronounced "see ya") which can also mean hello or goodbye. Oh and kavehaz (coffee house). that's it. Magyar is rough. I can't even pronounce most of the place names. I wonder if it's because I was by myself so I didn't talk about things to anyone....?

  • * The weather was crummy for 2 days, and fantastic for 3. Can't complain* I could easily fill another 5 days in Hungary. There's no shortage of things to do.